On a previous trip to the area we had viewed Steins Pillar jutting up out of the trees and it continued to call to us as we sat at home planning our next adventure. So, drawn to the pillar we headed out past Prineville for a day hike and climb. The parking lot is easy to find, and there are several potential camping areas along the way. The hike to the pillar is a nice rambling, hike with some uphill and rolling hills. The path is well worn and easy to tread. About 45 minutes of hiking got us to the start of the climb (the trail takes you right to the start). The climb we opted for is 5 pitches, rated 5.7 A2 (more info from summitpost.org).


This is Melissa rapelling at the end, but shows the start of the first pitch.

The first move has been described as a 5.9 unprotected boulder move, up to the ramp that leads to the first anchor. Not sure how others have accomplished this, but we ended up utilizing a bolt stem to aid up the first section. The first pitch is very short – maybe 30 ft. From the top of the first pitch traverse across a very large cave ledge and set an anchor at a bolt on the far end. There are placements for two cams in the pockets for the anchor (though there was some loose rock that made one questionable).


The ledge between belay station 1 and 1’

From here the aiding really begins. In my head I had envisioned something like Monkey Face, with mostly climbing, except for the aid section. Instead, this route is nearly all aid, with a few free moves thrown in. The second pitch starts to the climber’s right of the cave and arches up and left around the cave at about a 45 degree angle before heading up to the ledge for the second belay station (if you lean out on the ledge you can see the pitch). The start of the pitch is an un-protected slab that then moves you up to the gear. I found it a bit awkward as there is a ridge where the gear is placed at the back and then you are hanging over on the face. For those shorter in stature, some of the moves felt reachy. The protection was better than expected, and though there were definitely a few questionable pieces (piton that flexed and bolt/hanger that spins) we found there to be solid gear or bolts every few moves. We had pitons but didn’t need to place any on the first three pitches.


            Seconding Pitch 2                                       Pitch 2 from above

At the top of the second pitch is another nice belay ledge. The third pitch walks across the ledge and around a small wall to an obvious climb upwards. This is mostly vertical aid climbing. Even Steve found it to be reachy between pieces, but again found good protection every three to four pieces. As this was my third time ever aiding it was quite an experience getting up this far – but a great place to practice skills. As I was a bit wiped from the cave pitch and the weather was turning darker and colder as the day progressed, we opted to stop at the top of the third pitch. The fourth pitch wanders to the right and we weren’t sure if we would be able to rappel back to the third pitch from the fourth.


Looking up pitch 3 at Steve

One single rope rappel brought us from a set of rappel bolts near the top of pitch three (just before the black ramp) down to the station at the top of pitch one. Another quick rappel brought us back to the ground. On a gear note, we had brought a second rope to use from the top as a double rope rappel is recommended, but didn’t need it if only going up three pitches. We also didn’t use any gear larger than an inch for the first three pitches, and didn’t use any pitons not already fixed. Overall, a very interesting day, I look forward to going back and finishing the climb in the near future.


View from the road with Pitches 1-3 drawn in



Tools of the trade - ghetto "hammers" and "g-etriers"