Self Assessment, Strengths, Weaknesses, and Goals

“Get Stronger!”  That’s the usual answer to the question “How do I get better?”  And though it will work to some extent, it probably isn’t the most efficient or effective way to improve your climbing ability.  I still find myself resorting to the “Get Stronger!” mentality, and in some instances, it may be true, but most likely it is not.  It is the default answer, a product of undefined, or at least hazy goals and not a true understanding of your personal climbing traits/ability.

Below I outlined my current training program formation, which is not only a product of my short-term goals, but directly reflects both my weaknesses and strengths.  Ultimately I want to achieve all of my goals, but an inefficient and ineffective training program may leave many unachieved.  I must focus on improving the weaknesses that will improve my chance of achieving my goals while reducing or eliminating the focus on my strengths that so often are the things I find most enjoyable.  Below is my current training outline in the rough, as strengths, weaknesses, and goals.

Strengths

So, what the hell are my weaknesses, goals, etc.  Let’s start with strengths.  It will be a good pick-me-up before I crush it with weaknesses, and remember, this is a relative comparison to my own climbing ability.  So here’s the strengths list:

· Mental

      (a)  Perseverence: I am intrigued by failure, and push to succumb personal cruxes

      (b) I have a strong determination and motivation to improve in all categories

      (c) Hand-hold sequence preparation: before climbing, I access the hand sequence well

· Technique

      (a)  I generally excel at slopers

      (b) Powerful moves with good handholds

      (c) I have decent ability on fairly drastic overhangs

· Nutrition

    (a)  Nutrition plan has evolved well over the years to where I know how to maintain weight, reduce weight, or reduce fat.

    (b)  I have a high nutrient dense diet

    (c)  When motivated, I can follow a highly restrictive diet

· Physical ability

      (a)  Pull-up power from large holds

      (b)  Pressing moves

      (c)  Large muscle endurance

      (d)  Powerful moves on good handholds, including highly inclined walls

Weaknesses

For some reason I had a hard time making the strengths list.  Here is my weaknesses list:

· Mental

      (a)  I lack focus on climbing movements

      (b) Fear of falling limits my progression, both literally up the rock and figuratively

      (c) Frequently I do not have a positive attitude while climbing

      (d) Often I hesitate prior to a crux and over-think the climbing movement during the sequence

· Technique

      (a)  I do not trust my footwork, especially smearing

      (b) I am unaware of my body position, which generally does not efficiently transfer weight to my feet

      (c) I never use a full-crimp position, and most of my crimp positions do not have a high-strength potential (the second finger joint is not bent enough)

      (d)  I am not effective at choosing the best hand position on a hold

      (e)  I do not take advantage of rest positions and seldom have straight arms

      (f)  I have difficulty maintaining my foot placement on powerful, semi-dynamic moves

· Nutrition

    (a)  BEER

    (b)  Social situations

    (c)  Sometimes my diet becomes too restrictive, possibly limiting increases in strength

· Physical ability

      (a)  Finger strength/weight ratio

      (b)  Wide-shoulder pulling (i.e. pulling from a hand hold that is far right or left while moving the opposite way or straight up)

      (c)  Hand anaerobic endurance

      (d)  Activating core muscles well (this one may be more of a Mental issue; I’m not sure)

Long-Term Desires

So with that necessity out of the way, it’s time to dream.  What would I like to do eventually, with no limitations, no realistic view points, just pure desires.  Don’t reject activities that only a portion of you believes is unrealistic:

· Climb 5.12 comfortably (of course this is a relative term; how can 5.12 be comfortable)

· Push to work-on/climb projects in the 5.13 range

· Climb V9 problems

· Climb mixed-routes that require gymnastic like movements

· Climb and enjoy 5.10 alpine routes (gear placement mandatory)

· Being able to do a planche, complete straight body (not directly climbing related)

Short-Term Goals

So now back to reality, what are realistic goals for me, things that I can do in the near future and focus training on and what time frame do I think I can achieve these goals.  Both the time frame and goal should be feasible, but not easy.  These are things that I’ll have to make a strong, conscious effort to achieve.  Also, I should be able to measure my progress against the final goal outcome, which means the goal must be measurable.  Without this, it isn’t a true goal, but just a wish/desire because it is most likely relative to your current state (you never achieve the goal of “Get Stronger” because you can always get stronger.  You won’t top out, or at least you won’t know you have topped out at the present time).

· Climb a 5.12 route outside, maybe not cleanly, but make all of the moves (can be top-roped; by mid-Mar 2008)

· Climb an indoor V8 (by mid-Feb 2008)

· Begin leading crag trad 5.9s (by mid-May 2008)

· Lead ice climb pitches

· Begin to climb mixed routes

· Being able to do a front lever (not directly climbing related)

· Being able to push to a handstand from a seated position (may have an adverse effect on climbing goals, but a short-term goal of mine anyway)

 

There Is No Someday